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Chablis - tractor

A New Report – March 2026, visiting Chablis, the Mâconnais & the Côte d’Or

Chablis - tractor

The March 2026 issue of Burgundy-Report, including 50 Reports:
– The 2024 wines of Chablis Part 3
– The (mainly) 2024 wines from Mâcon Part 1
– A Few domaines from the Côte d'Or
Image right: The tractor coming home…

The greatest successes of this issue (alphabetically!):
Jules Desjourneys – 2023 Blancs
Samuel Billaud – 2024
Raveneau – 2024

Don't forget the big summary report of the 2024 Burgundy region vintage
Newly updated:

Vintage 2024

And then all the domaine & tasting visits:

Enjoy !!

JJ Archambaud Vosne-Romanée

A weekend wine – or two!

JJ Archambaud Vosne-Romanée

The 2019 Champagne? Well, pinot meunier is not my favourite, maybe thanks to that, there were some high-toned esters I didn’t like – but what a wine! Powerful, intense and very long with a strong salinity. This was absolutely a wine that had to be drunk – none left for day two – and also a wine I might consider buying 😉

2022 JJ Archambaud, Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas
Lots of colour. Still a cherry-purple rim. A deep and concentrated nose, unfortunately with quite a lot of creamy oak today – that’s not unfortunate for the future, but my bottle is open today! Wide, intense, a first texture that’s silky but slowly adds some bitters too. Saline, ultra-wide finishing. This is a powerful wine but clearly a bit too young for drinking (with pleasure) today…
Rebuy – Maybe

PXL_20260525_084749191.MP

The last 10 days in the Côtes…

Well, didn’t that weather change quickly !!

A week ago, we were barely seeing 20°C and the heating in my apartment in Beaune was working to keep a steady 20°C. This week it’s been wall-to-wall 33°C – and at least for the first half of the week, humid too – I now have 26°C in my apartment – and that’s without my heating!

I spotted my first flowers – of course, in the chardonnay – on the 14th of May. That’s the earliest I’ve ever personally seen flowers. It’s always in a wind-shaded but sunny-reflective part of a Meursault 1er Cru. That was, of course, an outlier, but by now we are into mid-flowering in pinot and quite some way through the chardonnay flowering phase.

The weather is ideal for flowering, just a light breeze and over 30°C – all should be finishing in the next few days before the weather changes, cooling and becoming wet – all of which could be true by the middle of next week.

In the Côte d’Or, things are looking very bright after two small volume vintages…

Dodgy cork(s)

Two weekend 1999s?

Dodgy cork(s)
Two 1999s – currently one of my favourite vintages, but not for these two! Both have been stored in the same corner of the cellar for many years. Every wine will be different, and mainly due to the quality of their corks:

1999 Camille Giroud, Bourgogne En Crêots
A wine-saturated cork, though I only broke the first cm. The cork itself smells of oxidised wine – but for older wines (usually 30 years older!) – that’s often the case for a wine-saturated cork, and it doesn’t mean that the wine will be the same.
Medium, medium-plus colour – and no cloudiness. No, there’s hardly any oxidation. Unfortunately, there’s a bit of brett. Direct, silky, plenty of acidity, but also an interesting depth of flavour with a slight accent of oxidation, but no flavour of brett. Long, quite direct and intense finishing. Holding impressively long, a metallic, blood-iron type of flavour, still with some subtle bitters – but no tannic grain. This was potentially a bit of a brute for the first few (15?) years of its life, but it seems quite drinkable – and with a better cork, this would probably be a super Bourgogne.
Rebuy – No but with a better cork, probably.

1999 Michel Gay, Beaune 1er Les Toussaints
What a great cork! Just 2mm of colour from wine ingress – and it comes out in one piece too!
The basic colour is similar to that of the Giroud, but here it’s cloudy and with plenty of sediment that hasn’t settled in 48 hours of ‘uprightness.’ To add to the cloudiness, there’s a pervasive note of brett – really as much as I’ve smelled in a wine for a long time – DNPIM*
Rebuy – No

*Do Not Put In Mouth !!

La Romanée 1865

Auctions done and to come…

La Romanée 1865Three sales – 2 for roughly similar values – but each for way less than a single bottle of Romanée-Conti 1945. The middle of these three for quite a bit more…
Image right from the Auctioneer, Baghera

Done – Andrew Lloyd Weber, £500,000:
Andrew Lloyd Webber sold his wine cellar ‘treasures‘ for charity.

Hosted by Christie’s, this sale was to benefit the provision of musical instruments in schools. There was also a strong sub-text to this sale, in that Lloyd Webber has spoken about how he became an alcoholic, so in the end, the joy that he found in collecting and drinking his ‘Beaunes’ had a sad end – though not so for the schools who will benefit.

This sale raised £517,910 for The Music in Secondary Schools Trust (MiSST), Christie’s said.

Also done – Baghera – nearly 2 million Swiss Francs:
Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Baghera/Wines held two auctions in Geneva on May 10, 2026, presented under the catalogues KIPLING #15 Prelude and KIPLING #16 Heartbeat.
Including a bottle of La Romanée 1865 from Bouchard Père & Fils, which achieved CHF 122,000 from two weekend sales that totalled CHF 1’948’183:

TOTAL KIPLING 15 Prelude: CHF 1’378’467 achieved
TOTAL KIPLING 16 Heartbeat: CHF 569’716 achieved

Not quite done – Laurent Ponsot, €500,000:
Haute Couture Burgundy, In Never Released Large Formats.‘ This online sale by Sotheby’s opened for bidding on the 15th of May and will close on the 29th of May.

202 lots are being auctioned, each coming directly from his winery, with vintages starting from when he founded his new operation, with his son, in 2017. Not all of the wines included in the sale are grand cru, but they are certainly well represented here, with Bonnes Mares, Chambertin, Clos de Saint Denis, Clos de Vougeot, Échezeaux, Montrachet, Bâtard Montrachet and Corton Charlemagne…

Fougeray de Beauclair

Weekend wines – chilled(?)

Last week I was in Chablis – not too cold and not too wet. Unfortunately, the refrigerator in my chambre d’hôte was set way too cold !! So cold, in fact, that two of my bottles froze in there!

The Leroy – the last of a case of 12 – almost lost its cork completely. Truth be told, it was of no loss as the wine was completely corked – yuk – but it was the only bad wine from this case. The Bonnes-Mares fared much better – it was delicious…

It was not the only wine though:

2022 de Moor, Chablis 1er Montmains – delicious, slightly apple fruit aroma as always at this domaine – but a wine of concentration and fruit6 but also of minerality and ‘place!’
2022 Vincent Dauvissat, Chablis 1er Fourneaux – a new wine here since 2021, lost for a couple of years but returning in 2025. A subtle aromatic ripeness of fruit, but a wine of architecture and minerality – it’s a Dauvissat !!
1998 Fougeray de Beauclair, Bonnes-Mares – A fine, robust cork That survived the wine being frozen! Medium colour. Complex and ‘ready’ aromas. Not the power – or tannin – of its youth. But delicious, complex, almost easy drinking…
2021 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Beauroy (Mag) – Deep but fresh citrus! Open, deliciously energetic and complex, with a little salinity too. A crowd-pleaser !!
2013 Château Mopulin à Vent, Moulin à Vent Croix des Vérillats (Mag) – A beautiful depth of complex, slightly spiced aromas – plenty of attractive development here too. Easy-going, delicious wine – not ultra complex but delicious, easy drinking…

Latest Burgundy Reports

03-2026

Chablis - tractor

The March 2026 issue of Burgundy-Report, including 50 Reports:
– The 2024 wines of Chablis Part 3
– The (mainly) 2024 wines from Mâcon Part 1
– A Few domaines from the Côte d'Or

Image: Tractor coming home

The greatest successes of this issue (alphabetically!):
Jules Desjourneys – 2023 Blancs
Samuel Billaud – 2024
Raveneau – 2024

Don't forget the big summary report of the 2024 Burgundy region vintage
Newly updated:

Vintage 2024

Tastings:
33x 2023 Grand Crus…
Comtesse de Chérisey – 2022 ++
des Croix – Beaunes Grèves & Bressandes (mini-verticals)

New Here:
Feuillebois et Fils – 2024
Lassarat – 2024
Pascale Rion Delhautal – 2024

2024 Côte d'Or
Chandon de Briailles – 2024
Henri & Gilles Buisson – 2024
Maison Romane – 2024
Sylvain Pataille – 2024

2024 Chablis – Part 3
Alain & Cyril Gautheron – 2024
Alice & Olivier De Moor – 2024 & 2023
Billaud-Simon – 2024
Camille & Laurent Schaller – 2024
Camille Besson – 2024
Château de Fleys – 2024
Château de Viviers – 2023 & 2024
Corinne & Jean-Pierre Grossot – 2024
des Hâtes – 2024
des Quatre Chemins – 2024
Eléonore Moreau – 2023
Fourrey & Fils – 2024
Garnier & Fils – 2024
Gérard Tremblay – 2024
Isabelle & Denis Pommier – 2024
Jeremy Arnaud – 2024
Jolly & Fils – 2024
Lamblin & Fils – 2024
Marronniers & Mauperthuis – 2024
Pattes Loup – 2023, 2022, 2021
Raveneau – 2024
Samuel Billaud – 2024
Simonnet-Febvre – 2024
Soupé – 2023 + 2024
Ventoura – 2024

2024 Mâconnais – Part 1
Chardigny – 2023 & 2024
Château de Lavernette – 2023 & 2024
Château des Rontets – 2023
Christian Moreau Père & Fils – 2024
Clos Sauvage – 2024
Cornin – 2024
des Crais – 2024
Jacques, Nathalie et Anthony Saumaize – 2024
Jules Desjourneys – 2023 Blancs
La Soufrandière – 2024
L’Oiseau de Passage – 2024
Pierre Vessigaud – 2024
Robert-Denogent – 2023
Saumaize-Michelin – 2024
Sébastien Giroux – 2023

Enjoy !!

02-2026

You still like to have something touchy?

The Finest Wines of Burgundy

A portable, hard-wearing guide to the Côte d’Or plus 90 producers of note and their best wines. Truth be told, there should have been 150 great producers – but not in the 320 pages that were prescribed.
It’s probably time to start working on a new one – eh?

Burgundy Report

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